Are You a Buda or a Pest?

Did you know that Budapest was formed from two separate cities on either side of the Danube?

Buda, on the west bank is the “Imperial” side of the city. Built among the hills and former site of one of the Hapsburg palaces, it has a history of wealth and opulence.

Pest, the intellectual and political capital of Hungary became the bourgeoisie half of this historical merge. Flat and more populous, it houses many of the bars and cafes, as well as the city’s industry and business. Also popular are the public parks, bath houses and pools.

The cities were united into one metropolis after over-throw of the Hapsburgs and formation of the Austro-Hungarian Empire in the mid-1800s.

I love this city. There is so much to see and do and the citizens are warm and friendly.

On the Buda side:

Castle Hill is where you’ll find Matthias Church, the Fisherman’s Bastion and the most stunning views of both sides of the Danube.

You can walk or drive to the top, but the most fun is the Funicular. In the spirit of capitalism, the cost is 1000 HUF to go down, 1700 HUF to go uphill! (roughly $4 and $6.50, respectively)

The Citadel, from where Soviet troops fired upon the citizens during the Hungarian Revolution.

On the Pest side:

Parliament, probably the most recognizable building of Budapest, built along the Pest embankment and the State Opera House are among the not to be missed.

The Great Synagogue – the largest Jewish Temple in Europe and the second largest in the world, boasts a unique Moorish architecture as well as a storied history. It also houses the Jewish Museum and Holocaust Memorial.

Fortunately, one can visit both sides with ease. The Chain Bridge is the most recognizable and first of eight bridges built to unite the city. Walk the bridge at least once to appreciate the sculptures and enjoy the views.

Night life in Budapest is abundant with bars, cafes, and street artists to entertain and the city skyline and bridges shine brightly.

During the day street vendors and markets are plenty with stalls packed full of embroidery, hand-made leather goods and linens, and of course – Paprika!

When you visit, don’t miss the Kürtőskalác. A sweet dough wrapped in strips around a spit and cooked over an open pit, served hot with cinnamon and honey. Delicious.

Now one thriving metropolis, Budapest is a fascinating city and a great destination for history, arts, and culinary groups. But, if you were an Austro-Hungarian before the merge would you be a Buda or a Pest?

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Global Entry Application

I had put off getting Global Entry for some time. But, I had a trip to Mexico scheduled the end of April and thought now is as good a time as any. Might as well get it before my next international trip. Right?

It’s a two-step process. The first is the “pre-approval” and the second is the in-person interview. The pre-approval happens (or doesn’t) based on your initial application and background check. If you pass this portion, you are invited for an interview to complete the process.

I submitted my application on-line with my payment ($100 for five years) in early March. About a week or 10 days later, I received a “pre-approval” letter with an invitation to schedule an interview with a list of offices and available appointments. So far, so good. The closest interview center, for me, was SFO. Bummer. I was thinking I’d be able to do it in San Jose, but oh well. I went on-line and the first available appointment was October! Oops. So much for having my Global Entry pass before my trip to Cancun!

Did a little research and found a couple of things:

1. Many offices, including SFO, will accept walk-ins. 
2. Different offices have different wait times. Turns out SFO is one of the busiest offices in the country and the most back-logged.

Moving forward with my saga. A conflict arose for the day of my appointment, so I went back on-line to reschedule. It’s now May and if 6-7 months is the normal window, I’m thinking to myself that I’ll be lucky to get Global Entry before next year. Behold! There were earlier appointments available. I don’t know if they added staff or if cancellations are frequent. But, there were a lot of available appointments in June. I grabbed June 28.

Appointment Day. Oh goody – government sponsored lines. Let's see, TSA, customs, immigration - all well-known for their efficiency. How long is this going to take? Surprisingly, not long at all. I showed up at the office about 15 minutes before my appointment. The door was closed (locked, I presume) with a large sign saying do not knock, interviews in progress. There were maybe a dozen people waiting outside the door; there didn’t appear to be a line. About 5 minutes after I arrived, an agent appeared with clipboard inquiring who had appointments. Three of us volunteered and he checked our names off and went back inside. He then appeared with another clipboard and asked who was a walk-in. A few people volunteered and he wrote their names down.

A few minutes later, he showed up and called my name (and a few others), directed me to a desk with another agent for my interview. I provided my passport and driver’s license (the DL was for proof of residence) and answered a few questions. The agent was very friendly and professional. He took my fingerprints and a photograph and then he told me I was approved and he gave me verbal and written instructions. My number was valid that day if I needed to use in air reservations for TSA pre-check. The photo ID card, I’ll get in a week or two.

I was in and out in 20 minutes. All in all a painless process and now I have TSA pre-check and Global Entry for 5 years.

Are you a trusted traveler? Or plan to be?

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Is Machu Picchu Closing?

The “Lost City of the Incas” is arguably one of the most awe-inspiring sites in the world. A World Wonder, I’ve been twice and it remains on my list – I’m not sure it will ever be removed!

Machu Picchu overloads the senses. Breathtaking views. A spiritual tranquility for quiet reflection and introspection. Llama gardeners working and entertaining. An adrenaline high felt after the achievement of hiking the Inca Trail. Sense of marvel at the engineering, astronomical, architectural, and agricultural accomplishments of the Incan people. Whatever your appetite, Machu Picchu is sure to fuel it.

It’s been in the news lately about limits being placed on visitors to Machu Picchu. New restrictions plus previous closures of the trail have resulted in a bit of misinformation.

Unfortunately, Machu Picchu has become an endangered site. Since it’s designation as a UNESCO World Heritage site, the Peruvian government has enacted many rules for visiting the site to try and mitigate the effects of thousands of visitors tromping about.

Advanced planning is a must. Permits to hike the trail are extremely limited and sell out months in advance. The number of admissions to the citadel are also limited, but with more availability than hiking permits. These too sell out during busy times, so it is well worth the effort to plan and purchase tickets in advance.

For several years, the trail has been closed for the month of February, to give it a “rest” and perform maintenance, but the citadel is open year-round.

Beginning July 1 of this year, the government has added additional limits. Admissions to the citadel will be timed and visitors will no longer be able to wander at will – no off-path traffic. The requirement for an official guide will be enforced and re-entry will not be permitted, unless you purchase a second ticket. They will also be enforcing walking stick, luggage, and other rules that have previously been haphazardly enforced.

Bottom line, the site is not closing – but to preserve this legacy, the restrictions are getting tighter.

Is Machu Picchu on your bucket list?

Venice - Living Legend or Tourist Trap?

Venezia, is a love it or hate it destination. OK, maybe love/hate is a little strong. But, there doesn’t seem to be much middle of the road opinion. Everyone I know who has been to Venice either can’t wait to return, or swear they’ll never go back.

I am a lover. I find it captivating. The history is fascinating – from its Roman origins, through its cruel medieval era, its excellence as a thriving Renaissance period, to designated UNESCO heritage site. Art and architecture to die for – Piazza San Marco, Basilica, Doge’s Palace, Italian opera houses. Not to mention the entire city is built over water. Plus, it’s a foodie heaven – Northern Italian cooking and wines, even if cuttlefish isn’t your thing. (Cuttlefish is both a required and an acquired taste!)

The best part about Venice is getting lost. It is so easy to get lost. The city has no apparent street plan. The streets are narrow (the narrowest is 21 inches wide!), unmarked and intertwined with the infinite canals. If you move just a couple of streets away from the piazza, you’ll find small shops, cafes, gelato stands, and restaurants all intermingled and with a local flavor, as opposed to the chain stores found near St. Mark’s Square. They crisscross and meander and before you know it, you are lost. People are friendly and helpful to point you back in the right direction. The city is small enough that no matter how lost you get, you aren’t too far from home.

Yes, the city struggles with the balance of kitschy tourism and cultural icon. Some days the Piazza San Marco can become so crowded with tourists that there isn’t even room for the resident pigeons!  But, the touristy things are also part of its charm. As I’ve mentioned in previous articles, being a tourist isn’t a bad thing. We travel to experience and sometimes we want to experience what we’ve read about or heard about from others. i.e. gondola rides, crossing (and posing on) the Rialto Bridge, and coffee on the Piazza San Marcos to name a few.

Example: my friends and I decided to take a coffee break and indulge in some pigeon watching at Piazza San Marco. Café choices abounded around the plaza. We decided on one that wasn’t too crowded and inquired about pricing and seating. Price for an espresso inside – two euros. Price for an espresso outside on the plaza? Twelve euros. We paid!

Are you ready to return to Venice or experience it for the first time? Or is it your idea of a tourist trap?

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Exchanging Currency

It used to be that local currency was the only acceptable means of payment. And the primary way of obtaining that currency was to exchange cash or traveler’s checks at local banks, airport exchange kiosks, or hotels while on the road, or purchasing foreign currency prior to departure. Getting the best exchange rate was the traveler’s version of a scavenger hunt.

Today’s options are not only more convenient and safer, but cheaper. Debit and credit cards reduce the need to carry large sums of cash, allow travelers to make purchases and obtain cash at or nearly close to the interbank exchange rate, and eliminate the guessing game of how much foreign currency you’ll need.

Debit cards are an excellent way to get cash.  ATM machines are open 24/7, they issue money in local currency, and the exchange rates are close to wholesale, much better than hotel, airport, and even local bank rates. Call your bank before you leave to notify them of your travels and ensure your PIN number will work outside the country. Also, get the phone number to call from outside the US if your card is lost or stolen.  Know your daily limits and don’t wait until you are out of cash to go to an ATM.  They run out of money and break down in other countries, also!

For larger purchases, hotel charges, etc. consider a credit card. This cuts down on the amount of cash you’ll need and there are some purchase protections offered with some cards. Notify the card issuer before you travel so they will be aware that you will be making charges from another country. Use a card issued by a company that doesn’t charge “currency exchange fees” such as your local credit union or Capital One. If you don’t have such a card, choose the one with the lowest rate.

I recommend traveling with a VISA or MasterCard, as they are the most widely accepted. AMEX sometimes has challenges – especially with small local merchants. And Discover is not internationally accepted. If you prefer AMEX or Discover, have a VISA or MC for back up.

My personal MO is to take a debit card for cash and a major credit card for everything else. I don’t purchase currency in advance. I hit an ATM at the airport upon arrival for local currency. If there isn’t an ATM at the airport, I buy a minimal amount of currency at the exchange booth and find an ATM or bank later to supplement, as needed.

When do you exchange currency?

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